If you've lifted your Jeep, I'm sure you've noticed the decrease in performance that comes with larger tires. That means more down-shifting on the highway and slower acceleration from a stop light. There are several aftermarket programmers, air intakes and exhausts that promise way more than we've seen delivered. At the end of the day, regearing your Jeep is the number one way to get your Jeep back in the power band and feel the power.
We've teamed up with some of our best suppliers to offer Jeep Wrangler JK gear and install packages at unbelievable prices. These kits offer the best quality gears and components available for years of trouble-free performance.
Do you need an Install Kit or an Overhaul Kit? An install kit includes everything needed to install the new gears (shims, seal, crush sleeve, pinion nut, etc.). An overhaul kit includes the same components as the install kit, but also comes with new Timken® bearings. Timken® bearings have long been regarded as the top quality bearings to install in differentials.
We recommend an overhaul kit if:
- Your Jeep has high miles
- Your Jeep has been through severe use (on or off-road)
- Your Jeep has not been well maintained
- It just makes you feel better to have new bearings
When you're ready, we've got the best deals on Jeep Wrangler JK gear and install packages.
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We finished the upgrades some time ago, but have been on the road so much that we haven't been able to post any updates. Here's a few pictures from some of our trips...
We've had the Jeep sitting on 42s for a little over a month now....we just didn't have time to post up the pictures.
We should be getting the steering linkage wrapped up within the next couple days, rear axle finished tomorrow, Atlas installed next week, and so on. The main wait will be waiting on the steering box and pump to be sent off and modified by Howe for the hydraulic assist system.
A few weeks ago we assembled the SOLID axle assemblies. Here's a brief overview:
The housings are top quality. They use .50" wall DOM axle tubes. The housings have threaded holes for top plate mounts, which is a much better option than welding to the cast differential. We ordered the front axle with the suspension mounts already welded in place. For the rear we ordered the axle with just the flanges attached since we are converting to rear leaf springs. Inside the differential, the housing has three oil galleys to keep the pinion bearings lubricated. Another great feature are the ARB air fitting holes drilled and tapped in the housing. You still have to drill or notch the carrier bearing caps, since those can be in different locations depending on the shim pack thickness.
For our build we used 35 Spline ARB Air Lockers, Superior 5.38 reverse cut ring & pinions and Superior overhaul kits. The gears set up perfect on both axles and we even got the hole drilled in the carrier bearing caps for the air lines without any hassle. Notice that the SOLID housings have the carrier bearing caps marked with a letter in different orientations on each side so that you don't get them on wrong.
The rear reuses the stock brakes, the shafts have OE style tone rings pressed on. The stock wheel speed sensor is mounted in the stock location. The front comes with new 1/2 ton GM style brakes, but uses custom machined hubs that have teeth for the wheel speed sensors. There is also an aluminum ring that the stock wheel speed sensor bolts in. Since the sensor uses magnetics to sense the teeth on the hub, you don't have to worry about a little grease or dirt on the teeth.
Once the bearings, seals rotor, studs, etc are all in place you can attach the hub assembly to the spindle using a Dana 60 4 prong spindle nut socket. Be sure to follow the recommended torque and back the nut off the proper amount to acheive the right preload on the bearings.
After the housings were assembled, putting them under the vehicle is fast and easy job. Most people will probably order complete axle assemblies, making this process a DIY job. We'll post more info on installing the axles and the rest of our winter build in another post.
I just wanted to post an update on what we are going to do this winter. Here's the grocery list:
- 42x15x17 Pit Bull Rockers
- SOLID Dana 60 axles front/rear
- ARB Air Lockers
- Superior 5.13 reverse cut gears
- 4340 Chromoly 35 spline inner and outer shafts
- SOLID ball joint knuckles
- SOLID high steer arms
- Mile Marker premium lock outs
- Raceline RT-233 Monster beadlock wheels
- Custom fender flares
- Leaf spring rear w/ traction bar
- Modify rear tire carrier to hold the new meat
- Atlas 2-speed transfer case
- 1350 CV driveshafts front/rear
- Extreme Duty front track bar
- Howe hydraulic assist steering
The parts have started showing up. Our goal is to have the Jeep back on the road and running smooth by March. We have a couple of customer vehicles to do in between this project, but we should have plenty of time left over to get this all finished.
We've been playing Russian Roulette for the past couple years by not having any rocker protection. There are a few dents in the rockers because of this, but luckily nothing major. We waited so long to get rocker guards because there are very few options for JK rocker protection on the market that we liked.
- Must bolt to the body to distribute force and maintain high ground clearance
- Needs to have usable steps built in
- Needs to be built with strong enough materials and workmanship to hold up to abuse
- Needs to look good
We happened to have our booth set up right next to Hanson Offroad while set up in Moab for Easter Jeep Safari. It was the first time that we saw their design and we really liked it. After looking around at other designs for a while we decided to go with the Hanson on our Jeep because nothing else fit our needs as well as the Hansons.
Like pretty much every other Jeep project we waited until the week before leaving on a trip to order the parts. Luckily the UPS guy dropped the rocker guards off today, so we have the weekend to get them on. In reality, it doesn't look like it will take more than an hour to install them.
There are three body mount bolts that the rocker guards attach to. You will need to loosen those three (18mm socket) bolts enough to slide the guards above the washer, but under the rubber mount. You do not have to remove the bolt.
Now have a friend help you slide the rockers over the bolts and hold the guards up and against the body. Make sure the guard is held up high so that it doesn't slide up while you tighten the body bolts and scratch the paint. While one person holds the rocker guards up, tighten the body bolts.
Mark the five holes that need to be drilled in the side of the body. Remove the rocker guards (opposite of how you put them on). Drill out the holes enough to fit the supplied threaded inserts. The hole that is closest to the front of the vehicle will have two layers of metal to drill through to give the insert enough room to be fully installed, all other holes just have the outside sheet metal layer.
Installing the inserts is probably the trickiest part of the install. We stripped the allen head off the install tool supplied. We ended up getting a hex head bolt to finish the install. The star shaped washer should keep the insert from spinning while you hold the nut with a wrench and torque down the screw. As the screw is tightened the brass fitting will flare and secure itself to the sheetmetal. To give you an idea of how tight it will hold, the inserts pulled themselves in to the vinyl of our wrap as we tightened them. After installing a few inserts, the inserts might start to spin as you crank down on the screw. If that happens you can try flipping the star shaped washer over or use a new star washer to keep a good grip on the insert.
After all the inserts are installed put the rocker guards back on. Install the five side screws first, then tighten the body mount bolts. THAT'S IT!
The Mopar Dana 60 was released at the end of last week, part number P5155083. We have one on the way to check it out.
It comes in cheaper than any of the aftermarket options. Our concerns are:
We will know and post more by the end of the week.
- This axle does not have a locker
- This axle does have huge brakes compared to the stock JK
- This axle uses c-clip axles!
- The brakes use a different retainer than the stock, so you cannot swap these brakes on to your stock axle
- This axle appears to have a 5x5.5 lug pattern
- This axle is set up for leaf spring (spring under) suspension
- It looks like this is the direct replacement for the J8 rear axle
This is still a Dana 60, so it would be a good upgrade from the stock Dana 44. The downsides are listed above. Our preference is still to build a SOLID® brand Dana 60 for the JK. After installing a locker, gears and yoke the price is about the same. Also, the SOLID® Dana 60 uses chromolly 35 spline non-c-clip shafts and is high-pinion for more ground clearance. We will be building a set of SOLID® 60s for our JK this winter, check back here for updates on that project.
Check out our new headers. They are Jet-Hot coated, designed for either 5.7L or 6.1L Hemis. These are the best headers for this swap by far!
We just finished this 2008 JK. It now runs a 5.7L Hemi, 5 speed auto transmission, Superlift 4" kit with Bilsteins, 20" XD Spy wheels, and 35x14.50x20 Pit Bull Growler tires.
Also, this is the very first Jeep to have our Jet Hot coated production headers!